Fly high in this
birder’s paradise

After years of poaching, it didn’t look good for the birds in Mangalajodi. Then locals, realising the harm of their actions, reversed course. Let Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust show you how they brought the birds back to this wetlands paradise — and travellers with them.

Meet Subhash

“When we didn’t know better, we’d kill and eat bird meat. On some occasions, we sold it to earn some money,” says Subhash Behera, a fisherman.

Two decades earlier, sentiments like Subhash’s were not unusual. Thanks to poaching, Mangalajodi’s bird population had dwindled to 5,000.

But today, Mangalajodi is a village transformed. Locals proudly show off the rich biodiversity of the area, and virtually all of them can rattle off the names of every bird species there in English, despite the language being foreign to them.

And every year, from October to March, the sleepy village is transformed by a flurry of activity.

Coming from as far as Siberia and Mongolia, migratory birds make Mangalajodi’s Chilika Lake — the second largest coastal lagoon in the world — their temporary haven. In turn, they draw flocks of passionate bird-watchers.

Hitting bottom, rising up

Mangalajodi, located in the state of Odisha, entered the spotlight in the 1990s when environmentalists began sounding the alarm over the plummeting native and migratory bird population numbers.

Then, fishermen like Subhash thought nothing of eating the various birds that had somehow gotten entangled in their nets. Others poached the birds, in the hopes of selling them for money.

A solution was desperately needed, and it wasn’t long before eco-tourism emerged as the prime candidate: perched on the edge of the serene Chilika Lake and its vast wetlands of swaying reeds, Mangalajodi is perfectly situated as a base for bird-lovers.

Thus, Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust (MET) was established in 2010, uniting various ongoing efforts in the area into a community-managed and community-owned enterprise.

Guided by RBS Foundation India and its implementing partner Indian Grameen Services (IGS), MET succeeded by placing locals like Subhash at the front and centre of its efforts.

“The phenomenal knowledge of birdlife that the community had, was seen as a skill that an enterprise could use,” says Abhinav Sen from RBS Foundation, who helps manage the programme with the villagers.

Interested members of the fishing community have been trained as boatmen — including Subhash — while former poachers who once used their keen eyes and ears to hunt for the birds, now use them to complement their new roles as guides.

All bookings are made through the Trust and every member is paid their fee on a per diem basis, depending on the type of services delivered (e.g. Rs300 per boat ride).

The Trust runs also four earth-friendly cottages and one dormitory for large groups, and can accommodate up to 25 to 30 people at a time. Meals comprise items sourced from local fisherfolk and farmers.

Once down to just a few thousand, today, the bird population has rebounded to 300,000 at its peak.

A day in birder’s paradise

Armed with only oars and binoculars to help them spot as well as identify birds, the boatmen and guides are the eyes and ears of the guests, as they accompany them into the wetlands.

During bird-watching season, a typical day starts with an early morning boat ride where guests spend around two-and-a-half hours on a boat, quietly lapping through the waters to spot birds like glossy ibises, swamphens and godwits.

After breaking for lunch, one can relax for the day, before heading out in the evening to spot more prized birds, while being embraced in a glorious sunset.

“It feels good to have people come visit our village and stay here for a couple of days. It is a matter of pride and honour for us,” says Purna Chandra Behera, a guide.

One of the first to take to guiding, Purna Chandra was sent for training at the Indian Institute of Tourism and Travel Management in Bhubaneshwar, after he joined MET.

He now works as a guide during bird-watching season. “Today, my son, who is also a guide, has attended the same training programme and has been taught by my teacher,” he shares with pride.

Adds Subhash, now a boatman and conservationist: “It’s because of these birds that people from different parts of the country, and even the world, come to stay in our tiny village.

“In turn, this helps us earn a better income for five to six months of the year and take better care of our families.”

Looking at the future

Awarded “Innovation in Tourism Enterprise” at the United Nations World Tourism Organization Awards in Spain in 2018, MET is gaining traction.

Recognition has brought visibility and in turn an increase in not just the number of tourists, but also the number of stakeholders: governmental, corporate and individuals.

Purna Chandra, for example, has been seeing more boatmen ferrying travellers around, although they are not part of the trust.

But as they reap benefits from the tourism boom, MET is also asking itself: how much is too much?

“At an operational level, it means understanding how many boating trips can be offered per day without crowding Chilika and disturbing the birds in their habitat. It also means identifying ways in which we can accommodate tourists,” says Sanjib K Sarangi from IGS, who has been advising MET.

A village that rose to infamy as one of bird poachers has managed to rewrite its narrative, and demonstrate the power of collective action and reform.

Now it must decide how to chart its course, as it straddles the dilemma of economics and ecology.

Chilika Lake, a vast body of water surrounded by swathes of swaying reeds, and a draw for migratory birds.
On the edges of the lake are villages like Mangalajodi, where residents eke out a living through fishing.
In 2010, Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust was set up, so that participating villagers could earn a more sustainable income through ecotourism efforts such as taking travellers onto the lake for bird-watching trips.
A typical day on the lake sees travellers gliding over the placid waters, guided by boatmen with sharp eyes to spot native birds, such as the swamphen (pictured).
Many travellers only visit Lake Chilika as a day trip, but you can also stay in Mangalajodi and get to know it better.
Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust runs four cottages and one dormitory for travellers, and offers meals prepared with ingredients sourced from local fisherfolk and farmers.
The interior of one of the cottages.
From left: Sanjib, an advisor to MET, with Reena, a villager and campus manager for MET, and Subhash, a boatman. They’re working together to help Mangalajodi and its natural surroundings thrive.
Thanks to efforts like theirs, the bird population in the region has rebounded to around 300,000.
Photo Credit: Elita Almeida, Sanjib Sarangi

Text: Elita Almeida

Tap to view more photos

THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE

Mangalajodi Ecotourism Trust is a community-owned initiative, which means every trip and stay with them, brings income to participating villagers.

This provides the community with greater income security and a vested interest in protecting the environment from further harm. Wildlife can flourish, while the standard of living for the community improves.

In January 2019, MET’s efforts won them the gold trophy for Best Wildlife Stay at the India Responsible Tourism Awards, organised by Outlook Traveller. MET was also recognised by the state government for its contribution to wildlife protection at the second National Chilika Bird Festival in 2019.

GETTING THERE

Bhubaneshwar, capital of the state of Odisha, is accessible by air, rail and road. Mangalajodi is about 90 minutes away by car.

Ask in advance for MET to arrange for transport from and to the airport through the taxi association, which comprises locals from Mangalajodi village.

TRAVELLER'S NOTES

Odisha sits by the Bay of Bengal in the eastern part of India, so the weather is quite humid for most part of the year. Wear light cottons. It is also advisable to cover your arms and wear clothing that covers the knees, to respect local modest dress code.
Odisha has a rich natural, cultural and historical heritage. Plan your stay accordingly to explore them.

Get inspired to be a better traveller

Curious as to how to be a better traveller?
Sign up for ideas for your next travel adventure!