Famed for their elaborate rituals honouring the dead, Toraja is a highland adventure set in South Sulawesi. Try a local homestay and support community livelihoods.
A trip through Toraja that gives back
Torajamelo
THE DIFFERENCE YOU MAKE
Torajamelo works in partnership with PEKKA — The Association of Women Headed Households — to train and help market the weavers’ hand-woven products outside the local market.
Founded in 2008, Torajamelo works with a community of around 1,000 weavers in Toraja & Mamasa in Sulawesi, and Adonara & Lembata in East Nusa Tenggara. In Toraja, it now has over 100 women weavers earning a sustainable income of about of 3 to 5 million rupiah (US$197 to $328) a month.
The collective, located in the Sa’adan region of North Toraja became self-sufficient in early-2015. Women who had to leave their families to work in other parts of Indonesia or Malaysia are returning home as they are now able to earn a sustainable livelihood with weaving.
With community-based tourism, their incomes can be boosted further. At the same time, the interaction between the Toraja community and foreigners allows the beauty of the local culture to be preserved and shared globally.
Getting there
Makassar is the best way to begin your journey, and from here there are two options to get to Mount Sesean, where most of the homestays are located.
If you choose to live with Dinny in her villa in the clouds at Batutumonga, you can take the scenic route, a 10-hour drive from Makassar via traditional villages, mountains and rice fields.
A quicker alternative will save you about six hours — Garuda or Wings will take you to Palopo town via a cool 45-minute ride on a propeller plane. This is followed by a two-hour drive into the main town of Rantepao in the north.
About the host
Your hosts are households who have partnered with Torajamelo to open simple homestays that allow you experience community life up close. Weavers like Meri will also lead workshops where you can learn about traditional crafts.
Traveller’s notes
Always carry a set of black clothing in case you stumble upon a funeral and wish to attend it.
Camera-toting tourists are welcome at sacred rituals and sites, but please be respectful as the Torajan take their traditions very seriously.
Time is a fluid concept in Toraja and it is not always possible to predict when traditional rituals take place, so keep an open mind about your schedule.
Cafe Aras located at the main town, Rantepao, is a good starting point for tourists. You can meet other travellers, local guides and artists, and indulge in local cuisine.
If you have to hire a driver, always hire a Torajan as there are no proper road signs and some very precarious bends around the hills.
If road travel is on your itinerary, bring along medication if you are prone to motion sickness.
Torajans are friendly and love to smile. Always smile back, and if you are lucky enough to be invited for a coffee with a local, graciously accept the invitation.
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